Saturday, May 15, 2010

Der weisse Spargel aus Beelitz, Deutschland

I am in Berlin doing some asparagus research. The spears around Berlin, especially from Beelitz, a white, thick and particularly excellent. The spears are thinly peeled and then steamed traditionally. Last night we had some with herby carrots, A roasted bonito and some boulangere potatoes. Wines: Italian Traminer. Very complementary with the asparagus.
My asparagus dataset is growing but I am considering doing a full European asparagus tour next spring, documenting the asparagus growing cultures and traditions. I think that there is booket or something in it.
I am wondering if I can bring some of the white stuff back with me and if it will last till next weekend!

Sunday, May 02, 2010

AsparagusFest 2010


Each year I like to trial a new asparagus dish...
This year its sushi. My mate Charlie came over on Friday and we had a few ingredients to play with. The resultant sushi we went for was a mix of asparagus, avocado, grated carrot, grated radish, philedelphia cheese and chives...
But last night I got excited and experimented. Crab and wild garlic were added to the mix with spectacular results (see pic)... I reckon a dry white - Alsace Muscat, Riesling or Pinot Blanc are ideal with asparagus - and sushi in particular. Am thinking of a kedgeree sushi too... Maybe a step to far but if you don't try you'll never know!

This year's preliminary menu is below...

Asp steamed (obviously)
Asp BBQed with a balsamic vinegrette
Asp roasted with garlic and parmesan
Asp Sushi
Asp Pommes Boulangere
Asp fritatta
Pasta salad with fennel, peppers, haloumi, cherry tomatoes, capers and of course...ASP!
Asp minestrone

AsparagusFest - Origins.

I started Asparagus Fest in 2004 because I was incensed that British asparagus was unobtainable from Stoke Newington. Zero. Peruvian check. Spanish check. Argentinian sure no problem. English - you're having a laugh mate!

One Friday I was in Ridley Rd Market and found some - 60p a bunch. I bought six bunches. I went to Bristol to see friends and brought it with me and added it to some Spanish stuff. There was no comparison.

The next week I went back and asked for it - I was shrugged at and directed to the Spanish stuff. NO! NO! NO! I want the British stuff! Huh? Eh? What's the difference. (Count to ten, Ben).

Asparagus quickly ages and by the time the stuff has been imported (especially from South America) its woody, pappy and nothing like the freshly picked you can get in season.

I only eat British asparagus in the UK and only in season. I don't want Peruvian woody stalks in my pasta in November. I want wild mushrooms and risotto in November. Seasonality no?

What also irked me was that you could find British asparagus in fancy stores like Selfridges in different sizes, grades etc but BOY was it expensive. £10 per kilo! It isn't a food for the rich and blessed. Its a tasty, healthy and versatile food stuff. (And its fun too).

British produce can be of the highest quality yet often we settle for the second rate imported stuff. Why? I am/was fed up of the grumbling acceptance of culinary mediocrity that seemd to epitomise UK food buying.

So in May 2004 after an hour of talking to farms in East Anglia I found a farm that would sell me 10 kilos for £30. Thanks very much I said, bombing up the A12 to Suffolk one Saturday in May. I was so excited. Have you seen what 10 kilos of asparagus looks like?

I told my friends that I was having an asparagus day - cooking it 10 different ways and asking who wanted to come? 25 people came. The asparagus all went and a festival was born.