Saturday, February 26, 2011

Anatomy of a soup (Fennel)

February. London. Wet. Grey. *Sigh*
When I feel :-/ (and boy does this weather get me down!) there is nothing like a warming bowl of soup.
Every mouthful feels like a cuddle - an embrace of salty-herby-vegetal nurture.

Florence fennel - one of my top five vegetables is an crisp aniseedy bulb when fresh and raw. It grills and bakes really well - typically I serve it with fish. When "souped" up the aniseed flavour is far milder - adding a base note rather than running the show.

Ingredients: fennel, onion, parsley, dill, herbie salt, garlic and a little bouillon 


The herbie salt is worth a mention. In French markets there is typically a stall selling dried herbs in a wide range of mixes or "melanges". One of my all time faves from the western side of the country is the mixture of the grey salt known as sel de Guerande - a pretty market town in Atlantic coastal Brittany - and dried herbs. An example would be Herbes de Provence (H. de P.) but really any mix of herbs works. There is some hidden alchemy when adding this to a soup or as a flavouring for roasted fish. Try mixing a 50-50 mix of sea salt with some H. de P. and see for yourself!  I am obsessed with it and it is a mainstay in my kitchen or when on the cooking on the road.

Preppage 




Chop the onion and fennel to roughly equal size. Finely chop the parsley, dill and some of the fennel herb (the top of the fennel bulb) to get about a tablespoon of each. Boil enough water to just cover. Add 25 g each  of butter and olive oil to a thick bottomed pan. When foaming add the onion, fennel and garlic and soften, ensuring everything is well covered in the fat.



Once softened and the water is boiling, turn up the heat and add about a tablespoon of herbie salt and a pinch of bouillon if using. Then add water to JUST cover. Bring to a simmer. Turn down heat and cover for 20 minutes.

After 20 minutes or so the soup should be looking like this. Taste: you should be getting salt, dried herbs and onion mainly. As I said the fennel is a base note. Make sure the veg is soft before blending!

With a hand blender whizz and ensure everything is blended.     



Then KEEP GOING! The idea is to froth the soup to get a velvety texture. It makes a really big difference to the overall texture which is crucial in a soup.

Blended and fresh herbs added.
 Now add the the finely chopped dill, parsley and fennel herb and stir well. We are now ready to serve and eat.

I added some good olive oil and some ground black pepper
I can eat litres of this stuff - especially when the colour of the sky is as miserable as this. At least my belly is smiling on the inside.

Friday, January 28, 2011

Penang Curry Paste

For the next supper club I am doing a Thai/Lao meal.
First off I am getting the Penang curry paste done.
There are so many ingredients! And then there is the chopping, grinding and sweat (and a few tears)....

The pestle and mortar has the dry and the bowl has the wet... Now to combine and KILL!

I had to cheat a bit and whizz it in a blender for a few seconds as my mortar is a bit too small (next on the shopping list).... It tastes more or less as I expected: pungent, intense and pretty spicy. Obviously once it is fried and the rest of the bits are added it will be the real deal. To be continued.

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

Laos

I was in Laos for 8 days in January. Laos cuisine, whilst similar to Thai cooking is more sutble, more fragrant and has some interesting ingredients. Here a few pix to get you started


This was the first food I ate in Laos: a spicy fish and coconut soup.
It was flavoured with galangal, dill, lettuce and other herbs. Blisteringly spicy it made my eyes weep and throat rasp; in short i loved it!

This was the Phousi market in Luang Prabang

Phousi market: you can see the wide variety of leaves/herbs they have on sale!

Yours truly at the Tamarind cookery school with my "scoff":
 stuffed lemongrass, steamed fish and a non-meat "orlaam" 
 
  

Saturday, May 15, 2010

Der weisse Spargel aus Beelitz, Deutschland

I am in Berlin doing some asparagus research. The spears around Berlin, especially from Beelitz, a white, thick and particularly excellent. The spears are thinly peeled and then steamed traditionally. Last night we had some with herby carrots, A roasted bonito and some boulangere potatoes. Wines: Italian Traminer. Very complementary with the asparagus.
My asparagus dataset is growing but I am considering doing a full European asparagus tour next spring, documenting the asparagus growing cultures and traditions. I think that there is booket or something in it.
I am wondering if I can bring some of the white stuff back with me and if it will last till next weekend!

Sunday, May 02, 2010

AsparagusFest 2010


Each year I like to trial a new asparagus dish...
This year its sushi. My mate Charlie came over on Friday and we had a few ingredients to play with. The resultant sushi we went for was a mix of asparagus, avocado, grated carrot, grated radish, philedelphia cheese and chives...
But last night I got excited and experimented. Crab and wild garlic were added to the mix with spectacular results (see pic)... I reckon a dry white - Alsace Muscat, Riesling or Pinot Blanc are ideal with asparagus - and sushi in particular. Am thinking of a kedgeree sushi too... Maybe a step to far but if you don't try you'll never know!

This year's preliminary menu is below...

Asp steamed (obviously)
Asp BBQed with a balsamic vinegrette
Asp roasted with garlic and parmesan
Asp Sushi
Asp Pommes Boulangere
Asp fritatta
Pasta salad with fennel, peppers, haloumi, cherry tomatoes, capers and of course...ASP!
Asp minestrone

AsparagusFest - Origins.

I started Asparagus Fest in 2004 because I was incensed that British asparagus was unobtainable from Stoke Newington. Zero. Peruvian check. Spanish check. Argentinian sure no problem. English - you're having a laugh mate!

One Friday I was in Ridley Rd Market and found some - 60p a bunch. I bought six bunches. I went to Bristol to see friends and brought it with me and added it to some Spanish stuff. There was no comparison.

The next week I went back and asked for it - I was shrugged at and directed to the Spanish stuff. NO! NO! NO! I want the British stuff! Huh? Eh? What's the difference. (Count to ten, Ben).

Asparagus quickly ages and by the time the stuff has been imported (especially from South America) its woody, pappy and nothing like the freshly picked you can get in season.

I only eat British asparagus in the UK and only in season. I don't want Peruvian woody stalks in my pasta in November. I want wild mushrooms and risotto in November. Seasonality no?

What also irked me was that you could find British asparagus in fancy stores like Selfridges in different sizes, grades etc but BOY was it expensive. £10 per kilo! It isn't a food for the rich and blessed. Its a tasty, healthy and versatile food stuff. (And its fun too).

British produce can be of the highest quality yet often we settle for the second rate imported stuff. Why? I am/was fed up of the grumbling acceptance of culinary mediocrity that seemd to epitomise UK food buying.

So in May 2004 after an hour of talking to farms in East Anglia I found a farm that would sell me 10 kilos for £30. Thanks very much I said, bombing up the A12 to Suffolk one Saturday in May. I was so excited. Have you seen what 10 kilos of asparagus looks like?

I told my friends that I was having an asparagus day - cooking it 10 different ways and asking who wanted to come? 25 people came. The asparagus all went and a festival was born.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Today's Menu

Fish Sausages & sorrel sauce
Roasted Turbot fillet with Shitake and potabella mushroom sauce, samphire and asparagus
White chocolate cake with raspberries.
Wine: Belograde Y Lurton (verdejo)